Growing Guides

How to grow garlic from cloves to full bulb harvest

If you’ve never grown a thing in your life, garlic is the place to start. It asks for so little—one planting in fall or early spring, and you won’t think about it much again until summer. Yet it gives so much in return.

A single clove planted in rich soil becomes a whole bulb of garlic months later. It multiplies in value, flavor, and usefulness. Garlic is used in nearly every cuisine, can last for months in storage, and even deters pests in the garden.

It doesn’t matter if you have a big backyard, a small raised bed, or a few deep containers on a patio—you can grow garlic. And with a little attention to timing, soil, and harvesting, you’ll be able to grow it again and again, year after year.

Let’s walk through the full process, from clove to cured bulb.

Understanding Garlic: The Two Main Types

Softneck Garlic

Softneck garlic is what you typically see in grocery stores. It has many small cloves in each bulb and a soft, flexible neck. This variety:

Stores longer (up to 9 months)
Thrives in mild to warm climates
Does not produce a flower stalk (scape)

If you live in the southern U.S. or coastal regions, softneck garlic is a safe choice. It’s less cold-hardy but makes up for it in longevity and flavor range.

Hardneck Garlic

Hardneck garlic produces fewer but larger cloves and sends up a flowering stalk called a “scape.” This variety:

Thrives in colder climates (zones 3–7)
Offers complex, bold flavors
Typically stores for 4–6 months

Hardneck garlic is best for those in northern zones with cold winters. The scapes are also edible and considered a gourmet delicacy in early summer.

When to Plant Garlic

Fall Planting (Recommended)

Garlic grows best when planted in the fall. For most regions in the U.S. and Europe, the best time is 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes—usually between late September and mid-November.

Why plant in fall?

Roots grow during winter dormancy
Bulbs start off strong in spring
Larger, more flavorful garlic at harvest time

The cloves don’t sprout much above ground until spring, but underground, they’re already establishing roots.

Spring Planting (If Necessary)

If you missed fall, you can still grow garlic in spring. Use early varieties, and plant as soon as the soil can be worked. While bulbs may be smaller, you’ll still get usable garlic by mid to late summer.

Choosing and Preparing Garlic Cloves

Where to Get Garlic for Planting

Your success starts with the garlic you plant. Avoid cloves from grocery stores—they may be sprayed with growth inhibitors or carry disease.

Instead, buy:

Certified seed garlic from online suppliers or local nurseries
Organic garlic from farmers’ markets
Heirloom varieties if you want bold flavor or want to save your own seed

You’ll usually receive whole bulbs that you’ll break into cloves just before planting.

How to Break Apart a Garlic Bulb

Two or three days before planting, break the garlic bulb into individual cloves.

Handle gently to avoid bruising
Do not peel the paper skin from each clove
Set aside the large outer cloves for planting
Use small or damaged cloves for cooking—they won’t grow strong plants

Each healthy clove you plant becomes one full bulb at harvest. Size matters here: larger cloves = larger bulbs.

Optional: Soaking Garlic Cloves Before Planting

Some gardeners soak garlic before planting to reduce fungal issues and boost early root development.

Here’s how:

Soak cloves in a solution of 1 quart water + 1 tablespoon baking soda + 1 tablespoon liquid seaweed or fish emulsion.
Let sit for 12 hours before planting.
Immediately before planting, soak for 10 minutes in rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide to disinfect.

This step is especially helpful if you’ve had fungal problems in your soil or are growing in humid climates.

How to Prepare Soil and Plant Garlic for a Successful Harvest

Garlic thrives in rich, loose, and well-drained soil. Avoid planting in heavy clay or areas that stay chronically wet, as garlic dislikes soggy roots.

Preparing the Soil for Garlic

To give your garlic the best start:

Dig down 8–10 inches to loosen the soil
Mix in compost or aged manure for nutrients
Aim for neutral to slightly acidic soil with a pH between 6.0–7.0
Add worm castings or bone meal to provide a slow-release nutrient boost

Tip: Raised beds are especially effective for garlic. They improve drainage, simplify mulching, and reduce the risk of soil compaction.

Garlic Planting Depth and Spacing

Garlic needs space to grow full-sized bulbs underground. Here’s what proper spacing looks like:

4–6 inches between cloves
8–12 inches between rows
Plant cloves 2 inches deep, with the pointy side facing up

For best results, plant in staggered rows to increase airflow and light exposure.
Always label your rows — once mulch and snow cover the soil, garlic becomes hard to find.

The Importance of Mulching Garlic

After planting, cover the bed with 3–6 inches of organic mulch. Great mulching materials include:

Straw
Chopped leaves
Shredded hay
Pine needles (avoid if soil is already acidic)

Why Mulch Matters:

Keeps soil warm in fall
Protects cloves in winter
Retains moisture during spring growth
Suppresses weeds — which garlic strongly resents competing with

Step-by-Step: How to Plant Garlic

Step 1: Prepare Your Soil

Dig or loosen the bed
Add compost, worm castings, and amendments
Rake it smooth and level

Step 2: Insert Garlic Cloves

Place each clove pointy side up
Push 2 inches into the soil
Space 4–6 inches apart

Step 3: Cover Gently

Rake or hand-cover each hole with soil
Pat gently so the soil is firm but not compacted

Step 4: Add Mulch

Spread straw or mulch over the top
Water lightly one time if the soil is dry
Walk away and let the garlic rest over winter

What Happens Next: Garlic Growth Timeline

Garlic doesn’t need much attention after planting, but here’s what to expect:

Fall

Roots begin to grow below ground
In warmer climates, you may see tiny green shoots—don’t worry

Winter

Garlic goes dormant
Shoots pause growth, but roots continue deepening
Snow provides natural insulation

Early Spring

Shoots begin growing fast
Start removing some mulch as soil warms
Begin light watering and fertilizing

Late Spring to Early Summer

Garlic enters its rapid growth phase
Bulbs begin forming underground
Some varieties (hardneck) will send up scapes

Caring for Garlic in Spring and Early Summer

Watering Garlic Properly

As spring arrives and temperatures rise, your garlic begins to stretch and thrive. Green shoots emerge, and beneath the soil, bulbs begin to quietly expand.

Proper care during this period can dramatically increase the size and quality of your garlic harvest.

Watering Garlic in Spring

To support strong, healthy growth:

Water once per week, if there is no rainfall
Keep the soil moist but not soggy
Mist in the morning to help prevent fungal diseases and mildew
Avoid overhead watering — use soaker hoses or a watering can with a gentle spray

Cut Back Watering Before Harvest

As garlic nears maturity (typically late spring to early summer), reduce water gradually. Stop watering 3 weeks before your planned harvest date. This helps bulbs dry and harden in the ground, boosting their storage life.

Feeding Garlic During Growth

If your garlic was planted in rich, compost-enhanced soil, it starts off with a good nutrient base. But to maximize bulb size, spring feeding can help.

Early Spring Feeding (When Shoots Are 4–6 Inches Tall):

Apply diluted fish emulsion or seaweed solution
Or top-dress with worm castings, aged compost, or an organic garlic fertilizer

Repeat this every 3–4 weeks, for a total of 3–4 applications, until mid-May.

⚠️ Avoid overfeeding later in the season — too much nitrogen in early summer can reduce bulb formation.

Garlic Scapes: What They Are and What to Do

What Are Garlic Scapes?

If you’re growing hardneck garlic, you’ll notice a curly green shoot emerging from the center of the plant in late spring — that’s the garlic scape, or flowering stem.

If left alone, the scape will form a bulbil (mini flower head) — but we don’t want that. Energy spent flowering reduces energy going into bulb formation.

Why You Should Cut Garlic Scapes

Removing the scape helps the plant redirect energy into growing a larger bulb.

When and How to Cut Garlic Scapes:

Cut when the scape forms one full curl or loop
Use clean, sharp scissors or garden shears
Cut just above the upper leaves, not into the central stem
Do this in the early morning or late evening to avoid stressing the plant

Bonus: Garlic Scapes Are Delicious

Garlic scapes are edible, tender, and mildly garlicky — like spring garlic with a hint of sweetness.

Ways to use scapes:

Stir-fry
Add to soups
Make garlic scape pesto
Grill them like asparagus

They store well in the fridge and are a short-lived seasonal delicacy, so enjoy them while you can!

Harvesting and Curing Garlic: Timing It Right and Preserving It Well

You plant garlic by the calendar, but you harvest it by watching the leaves.

Each garlic plant grows a number of long, green leaves — these are more than just foliage. Each leaf represents a protective wrapper on the bulb beneath the soil. Watching the condition of those leaves is your best guide to knowing exactly when to dig it up.

When to Pick: Finding the Sweet Spot

Signs that your garlic is ready to harvest:

The bottom leaves are yellow or brown
The top 3 to 5 leaves remain green
The soil is dry and firm

Too early? Small, underdeveloped bulbs.
Too late? Wrappers split, bulbs dry out or rot faster in storage.

How to Harvest Garlic Properly

Garlic isn’t meant to be yanked from the ground. It can bruise, break, or tear the stem, which shortens its storage life.

The Right Harvest Method:

Use a garden fork or spade to loosen the soil
Place your tool 4–6 inches away from the stem to avoid stabbing the bulb
Gently lift the plant and pull it out by the base
Do not wash or scrub — lightly dust off surface soil

Garlic is like a fruiting vegetable — handle it gently to avoid bruising.

Why Garlic Needs to Cure

Curing is the process of thoroughly drying garlic after harvest. It helps:

Harden the outer skin
Strengthen the neck
Protect the garlic for long-term storage

Properly Cured Garlic:

Can be braided or bundled
Is easy to transport
Stores well for up to 6 months in the right conditions

How to Cure Garlic Perfectly

Choose a shady, dry, and airy space — like a porch, shed, or basement. A fan can improve circulation.

Curing Instructions:

Hang garlic in small bundles of 5–10 plants
Or lay in single layers on a wire rack or mesh shelf
Leave roots and leaves attached to wick moisture away
Avoid direct sunlight
Cure for 2–3 weeks, until:
- Skins are papery
- Necks are firm to the squeeze

Storage Preparation: Garlic Saving and Cutting

Once garlic is fully cured:

Trim roots to about ¼ inch
Trim stems to 1 inch
- Or braid softneck varieties for hanging
Gently buff away surface soil and loose skins
Don’t over-peel — keep outer layers for protection
Never wash garlic before storing

Best Garlic Storage Conditions

To store garlic well:

Keep in a cool, dry, well-ventilated space
Ideal temperature: 55°F–65°F (13°C–18°C)
Ideal humidity: Around 60%
Use mesh bags, paper sacks, or open baskets — not plastic

Garlic Shelf Life:

Softneck garlic stores for 6–9 months
Hardneck garlic stores for 3–6 months

Check your garlic monthly. Use any that start to sprout or feel soft right away.

Saving Garlic for Next Year’s Planting

Provided, of course, that you wish to plant some more garlic next year (and you will), keep the largest and soundest bulbs. Large cloves mean large bulbs next time you harvest it.

What to Be Retained:

Bulbs that have large outer cloves
No mould, crack and soft spots
Of the same kind, which you wanted grown (hardneck or softneck)

Clearly label the stored bulbs and keep bulbs hunger-free alongside eating garlic.

Fall Replanting

Just before they are planted, crack the bulb into cloves–as before. Repeat the process done in Part 1 of fall planting and your garlic cycle will repeat itself year after year.

Beginner FAQs

Do I Have Any Chance of Growing Garlic With Grocery Store Bulbs?

Perhaps not perfectly but it is not ideal. Commercial garlic is usually treated and is likely to be diseased. Apply quality seed garlic.

Do I Have to Fertilize Garlic?

A little,–at the earliest spring. Organic blends, fish emulsion or compost is good. Do not over feed nitrogen towards the end of the season.

My Garlic Bulbs Didn’t Grow.

Ordinary causes: too late to set out, lack of sunlight, congested or excessive nitrogen. In addition to this, a stunted size may result due to watering of the bulb improperly during the time of formation.

What Are Garlic Scapes Good For?

Eat them! Flavourful, tender fresh and edible garlic scapes are delicately harvested early in the season. Excellent in pesto, stir-frying and grilling.

How Do I Know When Garlic Is Bad in Storage?

Spoiled garlic is mushy, mouldy, sprouting or have a musty smell. To store in bulk use firm, clean bulbs.

My Opinion

Garlic is not a speedy crop—and that is some of the beauty. Plant in the fall, nurture a little in the spring and you bulbs at hand come summertime. One clove makes out a whole bulb. Out of one bed you get months of garlic.

It is a crop that shows how to be patient, strategic and reap the rewards. It is not required to be a professional. All you need to do are good cloves, good soil at the beginning, and a willingness to wait until your pay-off.

The first time you sample a clove of your own homegrown garlic which is stronger, sweeter and much more flavorful than anything you have ever found in a store, you never want it again.

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